I could never be so hard on him.įinnegan has surfed since before his voice broke. There may be readers who find his continual risk-taking loathsome and selfish – particularly during the final sections of the book, when he becomes a father to a little girl. Several times in this memoir, Finnegan recounts how he is nearly drowned or dashed against the rocks. There was, that is, so much water rushing up the face that no matter how fast your board was moving across the surface, you were, in land terms, standing still … Then, after a few moments of this stomach-turning suspended animation, you would suddenly start rocketing down the coast, with the boulders turning into a long white blur under blue water.”įor all the beauty of such moments – and the author’s ability to recall and describe them – they are haunted by real danger. “The big white boulders underneath the water were stationary, or even inching slightly backward. “Sometimes the bottom did not move at all,” he writes.
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